Za'atar: What Is It, What's In It — and How Do You Use It?

Za'atar is to the Middle East what salt and pepper are to us: a seasoning that sits on the table and finds its way into almost every dish. Anyone who has tried the shimmering green mixture of wild thyme, sesame, and sumac on warm flatbread understands why it is now conquering Western kitchens.

This article explains what Za'atar is, what goes into it, how to use it for seasoning — and why the quality of the sumac determines the entire blend.

What is Za'atar?

Za'atar (also spelled Za'atar or Zaatar) is a spice blend from Levantine cuisine, whose basic structure consists of dried wild thyme, roasted sesame, sumac, and salt. The name can be misleading, as it refers to two things: the herb itself — a wild relative of thyme and oregano that grows in the Middle East — and the finished blend made from it.

In Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, Israel, and Palestine, Za'atar is as commonplace as a breakfast board here. Every family, every region blends it differently: sometimes more sour with more sumac, sometimes nuttier with more sesame, sometimes more bitter with added oregano or marjoram.

What's in Za'atar?

The four pillars of the blend and their purpose:

• Wild Thyme — the aromatic, herbaceous foundation. In its original form, it's the Levantine Za'atar plant; in European blends, it's usually high-quality thyme varieties.
• Sumac — ground, dark red drupes from the sumac tree. Provides a fruity acidity that only lemon could otherwise deliver, plus a subtle sweetness.
• Roasted Sesame — provides nuttiness, texture, and rounds off the herbaceousness.
• Salt — binds the flavors and makes the blend ready for the table.

The version from Altes Gewürzamt combines two thymes — wild thyme for the herbaceousness, lemon thyme for freshness — and adds black cumin, whose slightly bitter, caraway-like aroma gives the blend additional depth.

What does Za'atar taste like?

Za'atar tastes herbaceous, citrusy-sour, and nutty all at once — a combination not found in the European spice world. The first impression is thyme, then the fruity sumac acidity takes over, and the roasted sesame provides a long, nutty finish. Za'atar is not spicy. Anyone expecting a chili note will search in vain here — the excitement comes from acidity and herbaceousness, not heat.

Using Za'atar: the classic and six other ideas

The most famous use is Manakish, the Levantine flatbread: Mix two tablespoons of Za'atar with four tablespoons of olive oil to form a spreadable paste, spread it on rolled-out yeast dough, and bake it at 220 °C for about ten minutes. That's all it takes for a breakfast that tastes like Beirut.

In addition:

• Labneh or Yogurt Dip — Za'atar with good olive oil over creamy yogurt, with bread. The fastest oriental appetizer is ready.
• Hummus and Avocado — a pinch on top replaces lemon juice and herbs in one step.
• Roasted Vegetables — toss cauliflower or eggplant with oil and Za'atar before roasting.
• Poultry — marinate chicken pieces in olive oil and Za'atar before frying.
• Feta and Tomatoes — sprinkled over salad, the blend acts like a ready-made dressing spice.
• Couscous and Stews — a teaspoon added at the end of cooking noticeably enhances both.

Good to know: Sprinkle Za'atar over dishes preferably after cooking or in the last few minutes. The fine herbs and sesame quickly burn in a hot pan, and the sumac acidity dissipates. The blend from Altes Gewürzamt already contains salt — so taste before adding more salt.

Make your own Za'atar: the basic recipe

For a small amount to try: 3 tablespoons dried thyme, 2 tablespoons roasted sesame, 1 tablespoon ground sumac, ½ teaspoon salt flakes. Lightly crush the thyme in a mortar, mix everything, store airtight.

The honest truth: The blend stands and falls with the sumac — and good quality sumac is difficult to find in this country. Pale, old sumac makes Za'atar dull. If you don't want to go searching for first-class individual sumac, opt for a pre-mixed blend — such as the Za'atar from Altes Gewürzamt, where star chef precision and uncompromising raw material selection ensure the balance of acidity, herbaceousness, and nuttiness.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is sumac?

Sumac is the ground, dark red drupe of the sumac tree, which grows in the Mediterranean and Middle East. It seasons with fruity acidity rather than spiciness and is sometimes referred to as Sicilian sugar — an indication of its sweet-sour dual nature.

Is Za'atar spicy?

No. Za'atar works with acidity, herbaceousness, and nuttiness, not chili. Even those sensitive to spice can season generously with it.

What is the difference between Za'atar and Dukkah?

Both are sprinkling blends with sesame, but of different character: Za'atar is herbaceous-sour based on thyme and sumac, while Egyptian Dukkah is nutty-earthy with roasted nuts and cumin. A related alternative from the same manufacturer is the Ethiopian-inspired Ducca blend.

How long does Za'atar last?

Stored in a dark, dry, and airtight place, the blend will last well for a year. Since roasted sesame contains oil, old Za'atar will first lose its nuttiness — smell the tin briefly before seasoning.

What can I substitute for Za'atar?

A makeshift solution: dried thyme with a little roasted sesame, lemon zest, and salt. The typical sumac acidity can only be hinted at with this — for the true character, there's no way around the original.

Continue seasoning Orientally

• The All-rounder: Za'atar — the Levantine table seasoning from Altes Gewürzamt.
• For grilled meat: Baharat — the spicy Arabian grill blend.
• For couscous and stews: Ras el Hanout — the complex Moroccan royal blend.
• The entire range: all spices from Altes Gewürzamt at a glance.

If you prefer to stay in the winter bakery: Our gingerbread spice guide explains the sweet counterpart to the herbaceous Levantine cuisine.