Orange mustard

Orange mustard. Fruit sweetness at the front, mustard warmth behind it, ginger as the link.

The orange mustard from Wiehl is a fruit mustard in which oranges make up the largest part of the jar, combined with mustard seeds, vinegar and a little ginger. No hot Dijon, no orange marmalade, no mostarda with candied fruit.

Orange mustard is a sweet and spicy fruit mustard from the Königskind artisanal kitchen in the Oberbergisches Land, in which oranges play the main role at 63 percent. There is a wide field between a medium-hot table mustard and an orange marmalade. This mustard sits exactly in the middle of it. First, it smells of freshly cut orange, only then do the mustard seeds make their presence felt with a short, warm heat.

First orange, then a short, warm heat

The orange mustard tastes fruity and distinctly sweet at first, before a mild mustard heat sets in, which warms rather than stings the nose. Ginger adds a second, slightly peppery spice on top. Vinegar and salt give the whole thing contour, so that the fruit does not tip into marmalade.

Where the heat comes from is a beautiful piece of kitchen chemistry. Ground mustard seeds are initially hardly hot. Only when they come into contact with water does the enzyme myrosinase split certain plant substances into mustard oils. Heat and early added acid slow down this process, which is why fruit mustards are generally milder than classic mustard.

As a replacement for a medium-hot mustard for bratwurst or for a classic mustard sauce, it is not suitable. It is too sweet and too fruity for that, and that is exactly its job.

For raclette, cold roast and cured salmon

This mustard plays its strength next to salty, fatty or smoked dishes, because the fruit sweetness sets a counterpoint there. Half a teaspoon is enough for several bites.

At the raclette evening, it stands next to gherkins and silver onions as a third, fruity component. On the cheese plate, it accompanies aged Gouda, Comté or Manchego. For cold Kasseler and roast beef, it brings freshness to the evening table. For cured salmon, you mix two tablespoons of it with one tablespoon of neutral oil, one teaspoon of white wine vinegar and plenty of chopped dill. This results in a fruity variation of the Scandinavian mustard-dill sauce. In the sandwich with turkey breast, arugula and some cream cheese, a thin line replaces both butter and seasoning at the same time.

From experience: As a glaze for duck breast or oven-roasted carrots, you only brush the mustard on in the last five minutes. For long cooking times under the grill, it is less suitable, because the sugar caramelizes quickly and then becomes bitter. Who likes orange without mustard heat and with more bite, reaches for the Orange Chutney from the same kitchen.

An old idea from Northern Italy, newly stirred in the Bergisches

The combination of fruit and mustard is not a modern invention, in Northern Italy mostarda has been served with boiled meat for centuries. There, candied fruits lie in a mustard-hot syrup. German fruit mustards take a different path and combine fruit and seeds into a smooth, spreadable mass.

Königskind stirs this mustard in Wiehl by hand in small quantities. Because the oranges outweigh in quantity, the binding power of the ground seeds alone is not enough. A little pectin therefore ensures that the mustard stands on the spoon and does not slide off the cheese.

Wiehl lies in the Oberbergischer district, around 50 kilometers east of Cologne. The manufactory gets by there without aromas, preservatives and flavor enhancers. The taste is therefore determined solely by fruit, seeds and spices. Mustard is a firm focus for Uwe and Sabine's little kitchen next to chutneys and fruit spreads.

A mustard for the cheese board instead of the sausage

What distinguishes this orange mustard from ordinary mustard is its role on the table. It does not season on the side, but belongs to the cheese selection itself. Together with the Pear Chutney, a small duo is created, which covers mild and strong varieties equally.

The jar with 125 grams fits into every gift bag. For a large round with raclette, however, one jar is barely enough, so plan for two. With a piece of Comté and a baguette, it becomes a gift for a raclette evening, a long weekend breakfast or a cheese evening among friends. Also as a small addition to a gift basket with sausage and cheese, it easily finds its place.

A fruit mustard for the cheese plate, which shows how well orange and mustard seeds go together, when neither of them has to be loud.